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For the first part of our time in the “Cradle of Liberty” we focused on the city’s amazing history that has also earned it the nickname, “Birthplace of the American Revolution.” There were many events and skirmishes that led up to the War for Independence, and Boston can honestly claim a large role in the early years of the fight. Of the many reasons for the fight (like excessive taxation) the best reason we have found was offered by Levi Preston, a man who fought in the war. “What we meant in going for those red-coats was this: We had always governed ourselves and we always meant to. They didn’t mean we should.”

Our campground was some distance from downtown Boston but thankfully the Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority (MBTA) operates an extensive regional system. Our journey started with a three mile bike ride to the bus stop. The bus dropped us off 25 minutes later at the Quincy (pronounced QUIN-zee) Station subway which dropped us off near Boston Common another 25 minutes later.

During our commute Lance and I couldn’t resist singing a favorite Kingston Trio ditty, “The MTA Song.” The song tells the story of Charlie who was stuck on the train in Boston because he didn’t have enough money for the “new” exit fare. It was a hit in the 1960s for the group and is a catchy little tune. Obviously, MBTA is familiar with the song because their reusable fare card is called the “Charlie Card.”

Like so many have done before we followed Boston’s Freedom Trail, a red line on the sidewalk that begins at Boston Common (where residents used to graze cattle) and ends about three miles later at the Bunker Hill Monument in Charlestown.

The trail has over a dozen stops, many of them are part of the Boston National Historical Park which was established in 1974. We meandered through the Granary Burying Ground where so many of our country’s early honorables are buried: Samuel Adams, John Hancock, Robert Treat Paine, Paul Revere, and victims of the Boston Massacre (along with many others). There were only five people killed by British Regulars at the “massacre” but Samuel Adams and other orators added some extra emphasis to the murders in one of the first examples of fine American propaganda. It has been said that Samuel Adams gave the speeches and John Hancock gave the money that fueled the Revolution.

The Old South Meeting House was our next stop. Built in 1729 as a Puritan church its large size led to its being favored as a meeting room. It was here that Samuel Adams gave the signal to begin the famous “Tea Party” in 1773. That night, in just a few short hours the participants dumped over 46 tons of tea leaves into the harbor, a defiant act that really annoyed the crown (to put it mildly).

Later we wandered by the Old State House. Built in 1713 the building is now dwarfed by its much larger, gleaming neighbors. Just outside the building, marked in the sidewalk, is the site of the Boston massacre. The carefully preserved building still sports statues from Britain’s coat of arms, the lion and the unicorn. I’m sure there is quite a story behind it but it struck us as odd that the British symbol had a mythical creature on it.

By now it was time for lunch and thankfully, Faneuil Hall and the other historic buildings of the marketplace were nearby. The weather vane atop Faneuil Hall actually played a small part in the Revolutionary War. In an effort to weed out spies the rebels would ask new people to describe the weather vane. People familiar with Boston would know it was a grasshopper. These days people can tell if you are from out-of-town by the way you pronounce the Hall’s name. Just so you know, its FANN-uhl (like flannel).

After lunch we meandered through the narrow streets of the Blackstone Block, the oldest commercial district in the city. The area is home to the Union Oyster House (America’s oldest continuously operating restaurant), as well as the new, but named after old, taverns; the Green Dragon and Bell in Hand. Their signs still feature descriptive pictures, a remnant from a time when many people in America couldn’t read. This part of town was once home to a young Frenchman by the name of Louis Philippe. In the 1790s he made a living by teaching French to Bostonians before returning to France and becoming king of that country. I can just imagine it, “I was taught French by the King of France”, sniff.

Continuing on it was immediately apparent that we had entered the North End, currently an Italian neighborhood. A slightly burnt espresso smell wafted through the air, people waved their hands to emphatically make their points and the aroma of garlic and olive oil was everywhere. We were in the North End to take a peek at Paul Revere’s house and see the Old North Church (Christ Church) where the famous lantern signal was given on the night of April 18, 1775.

It never ceases to amaze me that some of these historic places still exist, Revere’s house was built in 1680! The place was old when Revere bought it in 1770. Revere was a very talented and industrious silversmith who went on to work with other metals (the company he founded still exists, too) but that is not why we stopped by his house. Revere was an ardent patriot who logged thousands of miles as an express rider for the cause. His most famous ride was the thirteen mile journey to Lexington to warn John Hancock and Samuel Adams of the planned march by British soldiers.

It was considered such an important message that Revere was not the only rider that night; William Dawes also rode from Boston. His route was longer, though, and he reached Lexington about 30 minutes after Revere. Previously unknown to me was that they both attempted to ride on to Concord but were stopped by a British patrol. Dawes escaped but Revere was captured. The officer who questioned him put his pistol to Revere’s head and told him that if he lied he would “blow his brains out”—I had no idea the expression was that old!

Crossing over the Charles River we noticed several hundred delicately patterned jellyfish, Moon Jellies, in the water. Like snowflakes, it seemed that no two were exactly alike. It was quite a sight. Speaking of sights, from the bridge we could see the masts of the USS Constitution over at the Charlestown Navy Yard. Completed in 1797 she was built of live oak, a very resilient material that earned her the name “Old Ironsides” because cannon balls would just bounce off her.

We didn’t linger for too long because we were on our way to the Bunker Hill Monument which is confusingly on top of Breed’s Hill. No the monument builders didn’t make a mistake, the historic Battle of Bunker Hill was actually fought on Breed’s Hill. It was supposed to have been on Bunker Hill but the American forces fortified Breed’s Hill instead since they felt it was more defensible. The battle that occurred here on June 17th of 1775 was ultimately a victory for the Redcoats but it came at a high price. Almost half the British troops were killed or injured and the Americans proved that they knew how to fight.

After climbing the 294 steps to the top of the monument we needed refreshment so we ducked into the Warren Tavern. The tavern is a watering hole that was built in 1780 and named for General (Dr.) Joseph Warren who died at the Battle of Breed’s Hill. The tavern was a favorite of Revere’s and even George Washington imbibed here.

So we were in good company as we recapped our day. And here’s a couple stories we have to share with you. Over the past 300 and some odd years that Boston has been around an awful lot of people have been buried here, a lot of them lie in unmarked graves for many reasons but this story stole our attention. Apparently the living had better uses for the headstones and many were appropriated for use in houses and yards. A few stones even ended up in a baker’s oven, his creative reuse was quickly discovered since the epitaphs were baked into the bottom of the bread! If he had only turned them over…

While in Boston we also discovered that molasses can be deadly. Not only was molasses used in great quantities during WWI to make munitions (which are used to kill people) but in 1919 a storage tank full of the sticky stuff burst in Boston. The 2,300,000 gallons of molasses quickly gushed down the city streets, killing at least 20 people and numerous horses. Some Bostonians claim that on hot days you can still smell the molasses. Our day was quite warm and we didn’t notice any molasses in the air but we’ll take their word for it.

As they say up here in New England, if you don’t like the weather, wait a while. By the time we left the Warren Tavern the hot sun was gone, replaced by gray skies and a light drizzle. Luckily, we completed our subway/bus/bike ride home before the skies really opened up.

Photos: View our photographs from Boston Freedom Trail.

Notes: We explored the historic places along Boston Freedom Trail July 8th, 2007.