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[See photos of Rome here]

Tuesday started with a morning landing at Fiumicino, Rome’s main airport. Immigration and customs were a breeze; I was disappointed somewhat, however, with the glare and thin-lipped look I got from the official checking my passport as I tried some Italian on him (wasted effort, I guess). Erin received the same look and didn’t try any Italian.

The area around the airport is green and airy. It’s proximity to the Mediterranean Sea gave it a “coastal resort town” feel as we zipped through county villas and fields towards the city on the train. We quickly left this seaside calm and entered the ‘burbs of the Italian capital. The scenery from outskirts to downtown could have been any city in Europe: Paris, Madrid, or Berlin; it spun by in a blur of high-rise apartment buildings. Living quarters showcased laundry hanging just beyond their minuscule balconies. The city is distinctly Rome though: as domed churches dot the skyline and the seven hills rise like waves upon a beach.

We found “Palace Alessandro”, a clean hotel/hostel with friendly staff. It is centrally located, just a few blocks from Stazione Termini (the main train depot) and within a stone’s throw of both branches of the Metro.

We couldn’t occupy the room until 3pm, so we dropped our bags with the concierge and headed out on foot to explore the city. First stop, Piazza dei Cinquecento, a belt of green that sits square against the train station. We took out our map, and decided to explore Old Rome today, and leave the Vatican and the western banks of the Tiber for tomorrow.

The first of many churches was Santa Maria degli Angeli, an unpretentious chapel sitting across from the Piazza della Republica. We both winced to see a McDonald’s squatting nearby; I must say though that it blended in quite well with the surrounding shops and buildings.

We headed southwest down Via Nazionale, renowned for it’s restaurants and hotels. After passing the Palazzo delle Esposizioni, we headed up a large staircase to the Quirinale, home to Italy’s president of the Republic. The building sits magnificently on a hill, overlooking much of Old Rome to the south and west. As luck would have it, we walked by the Piazza del Quirinale just as the President and his cohorts were emerging from the residence. Many a dark-windowed government car packed up with respectable-looking Italians in uniform and suits sped away accompanied by a squealing police escort.

We tried to catch a glimpse of the President, but we weren’t sure who to photograph! We’ll have to see if our photos match anything official we find online. It was fun to see the pomp, especially the Presidential guards in their multi-hued blue uniforms and odd caps and boots.

We headed into a beautiful area of Rome with narrow alleys paved in cobblestones, shops, sidewalk cafes, and more historical sites than you can view in a lifetime. At Trevi Fountain, we joined the crowd in tossing a coin over our left shoulder with our right hands. According to Roman legend, doing so ensures a return trip to Rome. The Piazza Trevi was packed with tourists, both local and foreign. We found out later that many Italians are on holiday for Liberation Week.

Down narrow streets we passed high-class shops, galleries, and enticing restaurants. We kept our eyes open for good deals on food; many cafes offer a “Menu del Giorno” (meal of the day). This usually means a salad, main dish, drink of choice, and coffee to finish for Euro$7 – 10: a great deal!

We passed a huge wall of stone pillars: Hadrian’s Temple. We were quickly realizing that almost all monuments in Rome have to do with some emperor, ruler, or leader of some sort. This temple was built by Agrippa, and is beautifully kept. Not far from the temple is the famous Pantheon, “church to all Italians.” Raphael, the famed Renaissance artist, is entombed here along with many other famous Italians. The inside of the Pantheon is perfectly round, with a huge skylight at the top that lets in streams of sunshine. It was an awesome place!

We followed our noses back to a pizzeria offering a “Menu del Giorno” of caprese (mozarella slices, fresh basil, and juicy tomatoes), margherita pizza (just tomatoes and cheese), and drinks included. I’d been waiting to try this food ever since Erin first described it! Every bite was delicious…We enjoyed a relaxing meal sitting outside the cafe on the narrow street. The main fun was watching people and trying to guess their nationality…the dress and manner usually helped us pick out the Italians, especially the young generation in their faded jeans, bright red sport shoes, and large 70’s style sunglasses.

After lunch we toured the Campidoglio, and walked high upon stairs next to the Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II: this gave us nice view of the city. Erin and I sat in the shade and read about the history and significance of the area around us. I felt a sense of deep history and cultural richness that I hadn’t experienced since visiting France in 1999. This feeling intensified as we headed into the lower region known as the Foro Romano (Roman Forum), three stories below modern street level. Excavated and preserved are churches, chapels, columns, and other buildings dating from Etruscan to Roman times. It’s hard to describe it all, but the pillars and stones were vivid reminders of the strength and breadth of the Roman Empire.

Our day ended at the Coliseum, itself a representation of what Roman culture was all about. Here is where mock naval battles were staged, and countless animals were slain by gladiators. The shear size of the arena was overwhelming, and we sat down to read the history and to contemplate this monument to man and his obsession with violence, war, and bloodshed.

We jumped on the Blue Metro line (Rome’s subway system) and headed back to Palace Alessandro. The shower and clean bed beckoned our travel-weary bodies but first I tried to get a wireless signal (no luck!). Tonight it’s a simple supper, and an early bedtime as we try to adjust to our new time zone.

Siamo contento di stare in Italia! Che bello pais. Domani, il palazzo del Papa…[1]

[1] We are happy to be in Italy! What a beautiful country. Tomorrow, the Pope’s palace…